Meeting with the legendary female Peshmergas (“Those who Face Death,” the Kurdish fighters defending their autonomous realm from ISIS) on the front lines near Mosul, ISIS’s capital in Iraq.
Female Peshmergas serving on the front line to protect autonomous Iraqi Kurdistan from the ISIS terrorists trying to conquer their moderate lands.
In 2015 the famed female Peshmergas made headlines by defeating ISIS’s seemingly inexorable advance in the town of Kobane.
The Peshmergas have fought to defend their moderate people from both ISIS and Saddam Hussein for decades and have a saying that captures their sense of isolated struggle “We have no friends but the mountains.”
This Peshmerga Command Outpost faced the ISIS lines nearby.
With the legendary Peshmerga general Bandal Bande in his command post.
A journey deep into the mountains of Kurdistan takes us to Rawanduz, the deepest canyon in the Middle East
My travel companions in our journeys across Kurdistan, Adam, Diyar and Karim our intrepid guide/driver.
Peshmerga mountain patrol near Rawanduz.
In 2014 ISIS conquered the northern Iraqi city of Mosul, the country’s third largest city, and expelled all Christians. We got to within 28 kilometers of this city, the largest in ISIS’s self-declared Caliphate.
At the Syrian refugee camp of Domiz near the Syrian border, home to 37,000 refugees.
Sunni Arab refugees from Syria.
Syrian refugees.
In 2014 ISIS conquered the mountain of Sinjar, site of an ancient shrine belonging to the pagan Yazidis. They enslaved their women as pagans and killed their men as “devil worshippers.” Here we visit their holiest shrine at Lailish.
Entrance to ancient Yazidi shrine at Lailish.
Entrance to ancient Yazidi shrine at Lailish.
The entrance at the shrine at Lailish with a representation of the snake that tempted their people to leave their faith centuries ago.
Yazidis worship Malak Tawus the Peacock Angel. Here their second highest priest Baba Chawish explains his people’s tradition of pacifism.
The gang with Baba Chawish.
Outer courtyard at Lailish.
Inner passageways at Lailish with oil amphorae.
A visit to Black Tiger Forward Operating Base, home of the famed Kurdish Peshmerga General Sirwan Barzani, the “Black Tiger.”
Peshmerga Humvee.
General Sirwan Birzani, head of Sector 6 facing ISIS, shows me a map of nearby battle lines.
Sirwan Barzani’s troops saved the Kurdistani capital of Erbil from advancing ISIS troops in 2014.
Painting of the Peshmergas in battle.
With some of the Peshmergas at Black Tiger Camp.
A visit to Chorman University in the south near Iran where the students were incredibly welcoming.
Students at Choman University.
Adam meeting locals in the capital of Erbil at the base of the 4,000 year old citadel, the oldest inhabited location in the world.
Meeting with the legendary female Peshmergas (“Those who Face Death,” the Kurdish fighters defending their autonomous realm from ISIS) on the front lines near Mosul, ISIS’s capital in Iraq.
